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Volume 13-- 2001 Berry Notes is written by Sonia Schloemann except where other contributors are noted. Publication is funded in part by the UMass Extension Agroecology Program and grower subscriptions. A text version can be e-mailed to you if you contact Sonia Schloemann. Please cite this source if reprinting information. |
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Summer Edition 2001 #5
Please note: there will be no Berry Notes next week. Next issue will be on June 28. Crop Conditions and Pest Summary
Strawberry harvest has finally begun. Continue checking for two-spotted spider mites through harvest. Tarnished plant bug can still cause damage to late fruit. Also, check soil in fields with failing plants for white grubs or root weevil larvae. Root weevils, especially Black Vine Weevils, appear to be a growing problem throughout New England. See more about it in the Strawberry section below. Also, see the preharvest PYO checklist below. Remember to pick blossoms on new plantings. Also, check new plantings for infestations of potato leafhopper. Blueberry fruit are developing. Some growers have noticed high levels of Japanese beetle grubs in the soil around blueberry plantings, too. Cranberry fruitworm moths are here. Blueberry maggot fly will be coming soon. Summer raspberries are in full-bloom. Gray mold protection is key during bloom. Cane diseases may be starting to show up on primocanes. Keep up the monitoring for tarnished plant bug and mites (two-spotted spider mites and European red mites). Continue to watch for potato leafhopper on fall-bearing raspberries. They can cause significant stunting and leafcurl at this time of year. Black raspberry primocanes should be tipped back to about 2.5 or 3 feet. This will encourage sturdy canes with lateral branching. Avoid tipping in wet weather. Grapes are progressing toward bloom and early fruitset. Disease management will remain a high priority. Continue to monitor for grape berry moth. Potato leaf hopper have been found on Long Island vineyards and are likely to be here, too. Japanese beetle will be emerging from the soil in the next 7 – 14 days. MeetingsTwilight Meeting Reminder: Monday June 25 At Calabrese Farms 6:00 - 8:30 p.m. 257 Feeding Hills Rd., Southwick, MA Contact: John Howell (413) 545-5307 Pesticide applicator recertification credits: 1 hour. The Calabrese Farm was started in 1948 by Joe and Eleanor Calabrese. It is currently operated by their son Tom and his wife Donna. Joe is still active with the farm as are Tom and Donna's children Joey, Michael and Danielle. Today the farm consists of 150 acres of vegetables and fruit including sweet corn, peppers, tomatoes, summer and winter squash, pumpkins, cabbage, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, peaches and Christmas trees. They also manage 80,000 square feet of greenhouse where they produce bedding plants, and tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. They employ 25 people during the growing season. They operate a retail stand and utilize wholesale markets. They are increasing their emphasis on retailing. As with many growers, they have been dealing with Phytophthora on peppers, tomatoes and vine crops. We will discuss cultural practices they are using to manage this disease. Irrigation trailer: A trailer will be present that has all the basic components for trickle irrigation: portable pump, four types of filters, and a fertilizer injector. Growers will be able to see this trickle irrigation system in action and experts will be present to answer questions. Directions: Go south on I-91 through Springfield. Take the Exit for Rts 5 north and 57 west. After crossing the Connecticut River take the Rt 57 exit. Follow Rt 57 west to Southwick. (Rt 57 starts out as a divided highway, but after several miles becomes a two lane road which changes direction a few times--follow signs). Calabrese Farm is on the left shortly after crossing into Southwick.
Massachusetts Specialty Foods Association Summer Picnic: In Good Taste Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery in Westport, MA will host the MA Specialty Foods Association's Country Summer Picnic and auction on Saturday, June 23, 2001. Spend a relaxing afternoon at this 200 acre historic family farm-winery sampling the fabulous flavors of Massachusetts' finest specialty foods, wines and beer. The event also includes a showing of internationally celebrated sculptor Mimi Sammis' powerful bronze pieces. The country voices and fiddles of the Fourth Street Players, as well as guided tours of the vineyard and winery combine to complete this memorable afternoon event. Westport Rivers is a recipient of a "Best of Boston 2000" award from Boston Magazine and is internationally recognized for their champagnes. Proceeds from the event will benefit the MSFA (MA Specialty Foods Association), a non-profit organization that supports and promotes Massachusetts state-wide small farms and specialty food companies through educational programming, marketing, trade efforts and connections to state and federal agencies. WHERE: Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery 417 Hixbridge Road, Westport, MA 02790 (for directions http://www.westportrivers.com/ or call 508-636-3423 x2) WHEN: Saturday, June 23, 2001 3-6pm COST: $45 per person (BY ADVANCED RESERVATION ONLY) TICKETS: 508-636-3423 x2. For more information, visit the Massachusetts Agri-Web at www.massgrown.org, a service of the Massachusetts Department of Food and Agriculture.
Weather DataThe following growing degree day (GDD) and precipitation data was collected for the period, May 31 through June 6, 2001. Soil temperature and phenological indicators were observed on June2, 2001. This information is intended to be used as a guide for monitoring the developmental stages and planning management strategies of pests in your location.
(Source: UMass Extension Landscape Message #14, June 8, 2001)
STATE WEATHER SUMMARY For the Week Ending Sunday, June 10, 2001 Prepared by AWIS, Inc.
(Source: New England Ag. Statistics Service, New England Weekly Crop Weather Report, Volume 21, No. 6, June 10, 2001)
StrawberryWow!! Black Vine Weevil Problems - Alan Eaton, UNH Cooperative Extension
Many of you know that I have been evaluating strawberry fruit pest injury across the stateœfor the last three years. Black vine weevil injury has been something we watched for while weœvisited the fields. The characteristic notching the beetles make at the edge of the leaves is easy toœspot. We didn’t make counts, but I noticed that the injury was easy to find in 97, compared to 99, when I found almost none. Now it seems that I may have been lulled into a false sense of security by such early season checking. In the last 2 days, I have heard from 3 growers, all of whom I visited in my fruit evaluations. All have SERIOUS injury from root weevils. Another report came from southern– Maine. What’s going on? There are several possible contributing factors, and I am going to speculate a bit about what they are. It will be a while before we can sort things out, but here’s what I’m thinking. Possible contributing factors can be 1) warmer temperatures in fall (and winter?) 2) reduced effectiveness of our chemical options and 3) killing beneficial organisms that used to help. I‘ll fill in on a few details below. Warmer Temperatures? Black vine weevil adults can survive our winters if they are mild,– and there is a bit of protection. If temperatures in late summer and early fall are warmer than usual, then we would expect to see more adults surviving longer, laying more eggs, and laying them later in the year, compared to normal conditions. Normally the adults appear in July and start laying eggs in late July or August. Egg laying continues, following temperature patterns. Warmer temperatures mean faster development and more eggs laid. Reduced Chemical Effectiveness? Two years ago we lost the registration of ‘Furadan‘ and had another insecticide registered. The new material was Brigade, a ‘pyrethroid‘. The new material was recommended to be used a bit earlier in the season, compared to ‘Furadan‘. It also had the advantage that the pre-harvest interval was zero days. After talking with Dr. Rich Cowles at the Connecticut Agr. Experiment Station, I learned that the adults can recover from the low labeled rate of Brigade; they look like they die, but after a day or two, they walk off and return to laying eggs! He says you need the high rate. Also, I am concerned that we are seeing more problems with two spotted spider mites. Those are usually held in check by our native predator mites, which we know are killed by pyrethroids. Killing Beneficials Rich told me that his work with in Connecticut suggests that ground beetles may be significant predators of black vine weevil (probably the larvae?). He also wonders if fumigation may kill many of the native insect-attacking nematodes in our soils. His work with nematodes suggests that they are a very effective option for control in strawberries. If the correct species is applied, you may get substantial survival of the nematodes over the winter, continuing control next season. He recommends spring application (May), and Steinernema feltiae, Heterorhabditis bacteriophora as effective species that survive winter well. Missed the May application window? Application at the end of August may be effective. Of course, application of nematodes is affected by weather. You need to have moist soil conditions, or the tiny nematodes fry before they can penetrate down and be protected. Rich’s message is: fear no weevil. This critter can be easily controlled with nematodes. Hopefully, we will see more on his results, and find out if they work as well here in NH, too. Pre-Harvest Checklist for Pick-Your-Own – David Handley, Univ. of Maine It’s that time again! As harvest approaches, make sure that your customers are going to have an enjoyable experience. Review the checklist below to evaluate your customer readiness.
Your clean, neat and friendly atmosphere will leave a lasting impression on your customers, encouraging them to come back and to recommend your farm to their friends.
Highbush BlueberryWhere has all the foliage gone? - Gary C. Pavlis, Rutgers University Visits to numerous fields in the Hammonton area this week revealed plants at different farms with similar symptoms, usually a lack of leaves throughout the plant and/or leaves that were small and burned at the tips. Many of the plants had been attacked by grubs. A good clue to this kind of feeding is when a good size plant can be pulled out of the ground with little effort indicating a small root system. The damage to the plants was largely done last fall and the grubs that are there now are very tough to kill. Last weeks newsletter described the use of Admire to control the new crop of grubs. I also saw mealy bugs on the roots of many plants. This damage will also result in a very small root system. This critter is white and a little fuzzy and can do a lot of damage. It's about the size of a letter "o" in this newsletter. Note: If you see a lot of ant hills in your field and plants are not healthy, you might have mealy bugs. Ants feed on the excretions of the mealy bug, as they do aphids above ground. Ants don't do any harm to the blueberry plants but they are moving the mealy bugs around. The third cause of the lack of leaves is due to wet feet/Phytophthora Root Rot. If your plants have few leaves, but you can't readily pull the plant out of the ground, and the planting is in a low or wet site, you could very well have root rot. Disease severity is related to how often a soil becomes saturated in addition to how long individual saturation periods last, for example, more than 24 hours in standing water promotes infection. The fourth cause of burned leaves that was seen was harder to put a finger on but it was a result of a spring application of something. Lime sulfur too late, Sinbar too late, urea too late, or a high level of Foliar Fertilizer all can burn the young leaves. It is hard to tell one from the other. If you have burned leaves, check you applications and spray dates for the cause or give me a call. (Source: The BLUEBERRY BULLETIN, June 8, 2000 Vol. XVI, No 10) Japanese Beetle - David J. Shetlar, Ohio State University Distribution This imported pest is generally found east of a line running from Michigan, southern Wisconsin and Illinois, south to Alabama. Occasional introductions are made into western states such as California and Oregon when the adult beetles or larvae are shipped in commerce. The original population was detected in New Jersey in 1916, having been introduced from Japan. In Ohio, the most damaging populations are east of a line running from Cleveland to Cincinnati. Isolated, damaging populations of grubs are occasionally found west of this line, usually in high-quality urban turf. Hosts The adult beetles are general herbivores and are known to feed on over 400 species of broad-leaved plants, although only about 50 species are preferred. The grubs will also feed on a wide variety of plant roots including ornamental trees and shrubs, garden and truck crops, and turfgrasses. They seem to especially relish Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescues and bentgrass. Damage Symptoms The adults are skeletonizers, that is, they eat the leaf tissue between the leaf veins but leave the veins behind. Attacked leaves look like lace that soon withers and dies. The adults will often attack flower buds and fruit. The grubs can kill small seedling plants but most commonly damage turf. The turf first appears off-color as if under water stress. Irrigating causes a short-lasting response or no response at all. The turf feels spongy under foot and can be easily pulled back like old carpet to reveal the grubs. Large populations of grubs kill the turf in irregular patches. Description of Stages The life stages of the Japanese beetle are typical of white grubs.
Life Cycle and Habits Larvae that have matured by June pupate and the adult beetles emerge from the last week of June through July. On warm sunny days the new beetles crawl onto low growing plants and warm for a while before taking flight. The first beetles out of the ground seek out suitable food plants and begin to feed as soon as possible. These early arrivals begin to release a congregation pheromone (odor) which is attractive to adults that emerge later. These odors attract additional adults to gather in masses on the unfortunate plants first selected. In cool weather, the adults may feign death by dropping from the plants but normally they will take flight. Newly emerged females release an additional sex pheromone which attracts males. The first mating usually takes place on turf with several male suitors awaiting the emergence of a new female. Mating also is common on the food plants and several matings by both males and females is common. After feeding for a day or two, the females leave feeding sites in the afternoon and burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. Females may lay 1 to 5 eggs scattered in an area before leaving the soil. These females will leave the following morning or a day or two later and will return to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs. About 95% of a population are generally laid by mid-August, though adults may be found until the first frost of fall. If the soil is sufficiently moist, eggs will swell in a few days. Egg development takes only 8 to 9 days at 80 to 90 degrees F or as long as 30 days at 65 degrees F. The first instar larvae dig to the soil surface where they feed on roots and organic material. If sufficient food and moisture are available, the first instars can complete development in 17 days at 78 degrees F or as long as 30 days at 68 degrees F. The second instars take 18 days to mature at 78 degrees F and 56 days at 68 degrees F. While this development is occurring, grubs may tunnel laterally in search of organic matter and fresh roots. This creates a very spongy feel to the soil and turf. Generally most of the grubs are in the third instar by early fall and are ready to dig into the soil to hibernate. The grubs burrow 4 to 8 inches into the soil as cold temperatures arrive. At this depth, the soil rarely gets below 25 degrees F and the grubs survive with no difficulty. If the soil begins to cool further, the grubs may dig deeper. The grubs return to the surface in the spring as the soil temperature warms. Generally the grubs can be expected to be active at the surface when the surface soil temperatures are about 60 degrees F, usually in mid-April. The grubs continue their development in the spring and the few second instars seem to mature in time to pupate along with the third instars. The mature grubs form a pre-pupa in early-June. The prepupa voids its gut contents and has a translucent appearance. The pupa is formed in the split skin of the pre-pupa in an earthen cell 1-to-3 inches in the soil. Control Strategies Option 1: Cultural Control - Quarantine - Japanese beetle quarantines are currently operated by the USDA-APHIS and states involved with shipping materials out of infested areas to uninfested areas. Though this has not stopped the slow progression of Japanese beetles westward, it seems to have slowed the process. Nurserymen and sod producers shipping plant material with soil out of Japanese beetle infested areas must obtain an inspection and certification. Often, airports and rail yards are under quarantine and transporters must treat their containers before shipping. Option 2: Cultural Control - Habitat Modification - Since the eggs and young grubs are very susceptible to dry soils, do not irrigate during the time the eggs and first instar larvae are developing. However, if natural rainfall occurs, this tactic will not work. Do not plant trees and shrubs that are highly attractive to adult Japanese beetles near turf. This is especially true along golf course fairways. Trees and shrubs most attractive to adults include: Japanese and Norway maple, birch, pin oak, horse chestnut, rose of sharon, sycamore, ornamental apple, plum, cherry, rose, mountain ash, willows, lindens, elms and Virginia creeper. Trees and shrubs rarely attacked include: red and silver maple, holly, boxwood, euonymus, flowering dogwood, cedar, juniper, arborvitae, red oak, tulip tree, magnolias, red mulberry, forsythia, ashes, privet, lilac, spruces, hydrangeas and taxus (yew). Option 3: - Biological Controls - Insect Parasites - Several parasitic wasps, especially Tiphia popilliavora and T. vernalis, and the winsome fly, Hyperecteina aldrichi have been imported and are now known to be established in several eastern states. Unfortunately, these parasites do not seem to be reliable in reducing Japanese beetle populations below damaging levels. However, the Tiphia appear to be more efficient in southern states. Option 4: Biological Control - Bacterial Milky Disease - The bacterial milky diseases, Bacillus popilliae Dutky and B. lentimorbus Dutky, have been quite effective at controlling grubs in certain areas of the eastern United States. The spore count must build up for 2 to 3 years to be very effective. During this time you should not use an insecticide against grubs that are needed to complete the bacterium cycle. There is some recent data that suggests that these bacterial diseases may not be performing well in certain areas. This may be due to reduced virulence, soil conditions or grub resistance. More commonly, different white grub species have displaced the Japanese beetle grubs. In Ohio and Kentucky, test trials have not produced satisfactory results. Additional experiments are needed to determine the lack of efficacy of milky disease in these soils. Option 5: Biological Control - Entomophagous Nematodes - The insect parasitic nematode, Steinernema (=Neoaplectana) glaseri Steiner, was used before 1940 and had considerable promise but this agent was not developed further because of problems of rearing and expense. This nematode may be economically available in the future. Commercially available products containing strains of S. carpocapsae have been marginally effective. Preparations containing Heterorhabditis spp. seem to be the most effective of the currently available nematodes. Apply the nematodes when the white grubs are in the second instars. Irrigation before and after nematode application with 1/4 inch of water minimum greatly increases the efficacy of the nematodes. Option 6: Mechanical Control - Trapping - Several traps have been developed to capture the adults. These traps generally use a mixture of the aggregation and sex pheromones. Recent data indicate that these traps do not significantly reduce grub populations and in some cases may actually contribute to increased foliar plant damage. There has been no correlation between trap captures and reductions in white grub populations in surrounding turfgrass areas. Option 7: Chemical Controls - Insecticides - Consult, [current New England Small Fruit Pest Management Guide]. When using trapping to monitor adult activity, keep in mind that the females lay the majority of their eggs within the first 7 to 10 days of their existence. They may live considerably longer than this and could be trapped into September and October. Usually, in Ohio the majority of Japanese beetle eggs have been laid by the end of the first week of August. (Source: Ohio State Factsheet HYG-2504-91) BramblesBlack, Purple Raspberries, and Blackberries: Summer Heading (Tipping) – Richard Funt, Ohio State University If shoots of these plants are allowed to grow unchecked, they get long and are very difficult to manage without support of some kind. To prevent this, the tips of new canes should be pinched off (headed) when the canes have reached a certain height. This induces growth of side branches and results in plants that are stocky and self-supporting and have a large amount of bearing wood. Black raspberry shoots should be tipped when canes reach about 28 to 30 inches. Brandywine purple raspberries are usually tipped about 36 inches. Erect blackberries are permitted to grow to a height of about three feet before tipping. Generally, plant height will be less than two feet for the planting year. Therefore, heading is done every year from the second season. Royalty purple raspberries do not require heading, because their growth is similar to red raspberries. In heading, the usual practice is to remove four inches of the top. It is necessary to go over the planting several times, because all shoots do not reach the same height at the same time. If shoots are permitted to grow much above the desired height and then headed, the extra shoot growth is wasted, and the side branches will not be as strong as if heading had been done at the proper time. The laterals should not be shortened until the following spring. In most cases, the laterals mature sufficiently well and are not winter-killed to an extent that yields are lowered. Canes that do not reach the height for tipping by the time harvesting is started are usually not tipped. These weak canes will not grow much higher, and late tipping results in weak, immature laterals. (Source: Ohio State University Bulletin 782-99 Brambles - Production Management and Marketing) Yellow Raspberries - Candace Pollock, OARDC Research Services Looking for a little variety in your red and black raspberry production? Try growing a yellow cultivar. Ohio State University horticulturist Dick Funt said yellow raspberries are slowly becoming hot commodities in Ohio as gourmet or specialty items, and they are not any more difficult to grow than other raspberry varieties. "It takes a while for people to get used to the sight of a yellow raspberry," said Funt. "But the fruit is becoming somewhat of a specialty item for bakeries and markets that may use the berry to decorate cakes and pastries or promote an unusual jam." Only a handful of producers grow yellow raspberries in Ohio and only four fall cultivars exist for producers to choose from, but Funt said the berries produce size and taste qualities to rival black and red raspberry varieties and are just as easy to grow. "The big thing right now is to get as big a berry as possible and as sweet tasting as possible," said Funt. One cultivar, known as Anne, produces a large berry, four to eight grams, compared to a typical red raspberry’s two to three grams, and has a high sugar content. Funt said the one disadvantage to a bigger berry is that it is more susceptible to molds because it’s a softer fruit. Anne and another big-berry cultivar, known as Fallgold, are susceptible to Botrytis blight, or gray mold. "But the cultivars excel at winter hardiness, and as long as you keep the soil drained, you can grow yellow raspberries just about anywhere in the state" Other fall yellow raspberries include Golden Harvest, which produces moderate yields but with small berries, and Goldie, a medium-sized, firm fruit that turns pink when ripe. For more information on growing yellow raspberry cultivars, consult bulletin 782 on Ohioline at http://www.ag.ohio-state.edu/~ohioline/, or contact your local OSU Extension office for a copy of the bulletin. (Source: Ohio Fruit ICM News, volume 5, No. 21, June 14, 2001) GrapesGrape Pest Management – Bruce Bordelon, Purdue University The recent rainy weather has been ideal for development of fungal diseases. And it's happening just at the critical time for disease development....bloom and immediate post-bloom. Growers should be sure to keep disease control their top priority right now. Black rot is probably the biggest concern. Annemiek Schilder, grape pathologist at Michigan State, reported in a recent issue of CAT Alert the results of some spray trials last year. In her study good control of black rot was achieved under high diseased pressure with one pre-bloom and two post-bloom sprays, or two post-bloom sprays only, of Nova at 5 oz/acre. Black rot incidence was 80% in the untreated control plots. Phomopsis is also a major concern right now. Infection of the flower cluster stem (rachis) can lead to significant fruit rot near harvest. Mancozeb or captan is recommended for control of Phomopsis. Despite the dry conditions early in the season, I've had some reports of severe Phomopsis outbreaks. I've also heard that Japanese beetles have already started to emerge in southwest Indiana. Don't forget to monitor the Grape Berry Moth traps. They were abundant last year and it's likely we'll see plenty of pressure this season. (Source: Facts for Fancy Fruit, Issue #7, June 6, 2001)
Bloom Botrytis Control – Alice Wise and Wayne Wilcox, Cornell University If conditions warrant during bloom (e.g. if a significant rain is predicted), consider including a material for Botrytis. Infestations of cluster debris may end up being very important at harvest time. From Dr. Wayne Wilcox’s annual fungal disease review: "it appears that berries indeed are most susceptible to Botrytis infection from veraison onwards, and that is probably when most damaging levels of infection typically occur. However, it also appears that at least some rot is initiated much earlier, either as latent infections of young berries or in blossom debris. By this scenario, late sprays [veraison and post veraison] should provide the lion’s share of control, but early sprays can provide significant benefits by reducing the ‘foothold’ that the fungus might otherwise establish within the clusters, and from which it can spread." So if the weather turns nasty during bloom, which varieties merit treatment? Target highly susceptible varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. In rainy years, preveraison Botrytis has developed in these varieties at LIHREC, lending credence to Wilcox’s statement above. What materials should be used? Botrytis specific materials are Vangard, Elevate and Rovral. The strobilurins-Abound, Sovran and Flint- have also demonstrated some Botrytis activity. Again Wilcox: "Under moderate pressure, it appears that the strobies may provide adequate [Botrytis] protection during the period between bloom and bunch closure (when they have their best fit to control other disease anyway), provided that a Botrytis-specific material is used at veraison and perhaps preharvest if weather conditions dictate. This program appears to work but I haven’t seen it under heavy pressure on the worst varieties, so still consider it somewhat experimental. Under very wet conditions (especially near the end of bloom), the ‘big guns’ (Vangard or Elevate) may be better choices but we don’t have the experience yet to know for sure. Strobies or Elevate applied to the [flower] caps will probably fall with the caps (Vangard should penetrate caps to reach the flower parts), so these materials may be more effective during late bloom rather than at pre- or early bloom." (Source: Long Island Fruit and Vegetable Update, No. 14, June 8, 2001) RibesPruning Gooseberries, Summer - Ed Mashburn, Northumberland Berry Works Many people do not think of pruning during the summer or growing season; however summer pruning is very important to the growing and shaping the plant. This is the constant fine tuning of the process of shaping and controlling the plant. Gooseberries that are growing well will put on a lot of new growth as the fruit sets and enlarges. Here in Pennsylvania this is during May and June, plants will double in total volume. This will make harvesting very difficult, will endanger the plant to pests and disease, and will require a lot of curative pruning in the winter or dormant period. Summer pruning is a "do it now" operation that is a maintenance process that should not ignored or put off too long. It is better to make several short cuts rather than take out long pieces of excess plant. This also allows the plant to expend the growing energy to the portions that will remain and make a stronger plant. For traditional bush plants If the plant has been adequately pruned during the past this is strictly a maintenance process. The goals are to keep all canes or shoots straight and avoid crossing and growing toward the center of the plant. This is the time to keep the small side shoots removed to prevent the plant from becoming too dense. I start this pruning during the early bud break season. As leaf buds enlarge and open you will be able to determine that some of the terminal (end) buds are not expanding well or at all. Some of these may have been damaged by disease or by the winter. I find that if these are removed by shortening the cane or branch to a good plump bud the last remaining bud will become a "terminal" bud. The second step of this process is done after the blossoms opens and as the fruit is set. I examine the lowest canes: some may have very few or no fruit blooms, and I remove these at that time unless the plant is young and in the first year of fruiting. Other canes will have large numbers of blooms and/or small fruit formed along the underside of the branch. I shorten these canes so that the terminal end (with few or no blooms) is removed. All canes or shoots should be shortened to encourage the plant to grow more upright and develop a strong erect habit. Fruit will become heavy and weigh the branches down as it enlarges; do not allow the fruiting canes to bend down to the ground. The tips will often root and the plant becomes very difficult to manage. Plants that have long arching canes should be pruned so that the canes do not grow downward much below the highest point of the arch. Canes pruned in this manner will droop more as the weight of fruit increases. They may have to be further shortened or some of the green fruit removed when the size has become larger. This fruit can be used in jam and pies; it requires more sugar. This pruning method makes harvest easier: hold the tip of the cane with the left hand and strip the berries with the right. It is important to remove the side branchlets from the canes as they form, otherwise it is very difficult to reach into the plant and harvest berries from these side shoots. This also reduces the bearing area of the plant and thins the fruit to allow the berries to be larger. Plants on a leg Summer pruning of these plants is much the same as for the bush type. Remove the excess sprouts that come out of the scaffold branches. Remove all branchlets that are on top of or on the bottom of the branches. Take out all sprouts that grow toward the center of the plant. Remove any sprouts from the "leg" and all suckers that may arise from the root system. This is especially true if the plant has been grafted because the suckers will not be the same as the plant. All the branches need to be tipped (the ends removed) to keep the branches strong, upright and to facilitate harvesting. I usually do this in late May or early June as by then the fruit has developed some size and the branches tend to droop under the weight of the berries. This also opens up the plant somewhat and allows more air circulation at a critical time. Sometimes it is necessary to further shorten the branches on late ripening cultivars. Remember to always shorten to an upward or topside bud. Plants on a trellis Gooseberries grown on a trellis are handled in much the same way as those on a "leg". The main principles apply: keep the "leg" or lower part clear, shorten or tip the canes to help stiffen and strengthen the scaffold or framework of the plant, and do not let the plant become too dense. The lateral branches (those growing in the same direction of the wire) should be tied so that the tip is headed upwards. Do not tie these in a horizontal manner or they will not set as much fruit and there will be a lot of "watersprouts". Remove all the sprouts on the top and bottom of the lateral branches and some of the ones from the sides. This will allow more air and light to the plant and keep it from getting too dense. I allow the side branchlets to grow out into the row for approximately 12 to 15 inches. These should be tipped or shortened as they become heavy with fruit to keep the growing attitude upward. Do not allow too many to remain or the plant will become too dense. Plants growing on a trellis are easier to maintain than the traditional bush. I try to keep all the fruiting portion of the plant between two feet and five feet above the ground. Plants grown as cordons Cordons should be attached to a stake or a stake and wire. I keep the lower eight inches free of growth, as a "leg" and then prune the remaining branches in a very long taper or candle shape. The plant should not be more than 20 inches across at the base and should be much less than that near the top. This concept requires a lot of attention as the plants are growing very rapidly in the spring. I tend to fall behind and have to take out larger amounts than planned. A week of rain in May when it is warm will produce long sprouts that droop and suddenly the plant is much too dense and the canes are too long; this slows the growth of the terminal shoot or cane. Keep the central terminal cane tied to the stake or cane. It will break when growing very fast if it is rainsoaked and the wind is blowing. It is necessary to tip or shorten the terminal (upright) tip also; cut it back and then allow only one of the new terminal sprouts to grow. This will produce a stronger plant. It is almost impossible to prune too much or too often. It is much easier to do it in stages, cut some this week , and then look at it and cut some more. Don’t get caught without a pruner! (Source: The Ribes Reporter, Vol 7, I 1, August ’95) Farm SafetyMore Children Die in Farm Machinery-Related Incidents - The recent deaths of several more children and youths in farm machinery-related incidents has agricultural safety specialists urging farm parents and ag/hort employers to step up their safety precautions. "Two year olds are too young to be anywhere near farm machinery. This is an age psychologically where they're trying to exhibit dominance, so they're going to test the boundaries," Malcolm Legault, an agricultural safety and health researcher at Penn State University, says. "Youths who are given the responsibility of operating a tractor should be trained and certified, then be given a job to match their ability, then be supervised to do the job," Nancy Esser of the National Children's Center for Rural and Agricultural Health and Safety adds. "All children, farm and non-farm, are very vulnerable to injury." Among the recent deaths: a 2 year old who was playing near a disc hooked up to a tractor that was in gear, a 5 year old who fell out of the open door of the cab of a backhoe, a 3 year old who fell out of the bucket of a front-end loader onto the highway, a 2 year old who fell out of a horse-drawn wagon driven by his 6 year old brother, a 13 year old who recently learned how to operate a tractor, and a 15 year old who was pinned underneath a tractor when it rolled over. (Source: Gemplers News Alert Update) |
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